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Low-Density Cheat Sheet

  1. Pay extra attention to how much density you have to place layers. Make sure there is enough hair to prevent the hair from looking stringy.
  1. If you plan to shift the interior with heavy layering, let the client know they will potentially have “see-through” ends.
  1. Strategically, Mindfully and with Intent. Shaping with intention will act as a guide in helping you strategically add little visual interest pieces enhancing the overall shape.
  1. Face framing can add some fun to the cut, so discuss the options.
  2. Styling tips for low density depend on their ODL—overall desired look.  Foams are excellent for low-density hair. Typically, you will be diffusing on low and slow, mindful not to disrupt the clumps.  A low-density hair type will quickly break up, leaving the “curl family”  behind, resulting in frizz. When shaking the hair, do so gently until you find that sweet spot between adding fullness and undoing your hard work.
  1. I shift all of the layers towards the lower bottom of the hair.  It’s adding a little movement to the cut and creating the illusion of fullness and volume.  If it’s super-low density, I move to a blunt cut. I know lots of feelings about curly blunt cuts since getting away from that triangle look is the whole point. My suggestion is to make sure you discuss that ODL with your client before picking up the shears. 
  1. Telling the truth is always the best idea, but it is fundamental to the low-density hair client. It isn’t to discourage but rather to empower. The benefits to the client of understanding what their hair is capable of are liberating. Alas, they can stop thinking they are doing something “wrong.” The endless search for products, techniques, and haircuts that magically transform their hair into Instagram will ease. They can start accepting, embracing, learning, and falling in love with their individuality instead of comparing themselves to a self-defeating narrative. Empowering your client is a gift, and please share it with them. 
  1. I avoid using generalization terms since each client has curly, coily, or wavy patterns. Yet, this hair type tends to grow slowly, or it’s so delicate and fragile that it tends to break off easily. So I recommend maintenance cuts on the 6-month mark vs. 3-4, especially if growth is their goal.

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